AROSA: A HIDDEN GEM IN THE SWISS ALPS
When we think of the Swiss Alps, St. Moritz or Zermatt come to mind, but the truth is that there are thousands of lesser known villages in that area that have an incredible charm and offer real wonders.
In the area known as Graubünden, at one end of the beautiful Schanfigg valley and at an altitude of 1800m, lies Arosa, a village that I would not have known if my grandfather had not emigrated to Switzerland to work in his youth and that we decided to visit as a family as a tribute to him and my grandmother.
After a day and a half's drive from Spain, discovering France and its gastronomy, we arrived in Switzerland. To be able to drive our own vehicle through the country we had to pay the road tax at the border (approx. 40€) which allows you to drive on all the country's roads without any restrictions. The permit remains valid for the whole year in which it is purchased, so if we had decided to return, we would not have had to go through this procedure.
We left Zurich behind and headed for Coira, the largest town at the foot of the valley, which signalled the start of one of the best summer adventures. There are two ways to reach the town: by road or by train.
The road up is quite narrow, with 365 curves (one for every day of the year!) and breathtaking views. We opted for this option when travelling in our vehicle. After about 40 minutes, we drove deep into the heart of the mountains and arrived in Arosa.
We stayed at one of the highest altitude hotels in Arosa, Hotel Stoffel, which becomes a top 10 option during the ski season, allowing you to leave the premises and get there by gliding through the snow. In the summer season there is no major problem to get there, as due to climate change it is difficult to see snow on the almost 3000m peaks that surround you. However, if you are not used to the cold, take a warm coat, as the sunrise temperatures can be very cold, even though they easily reach 15-17ºC during the day, and anything more than a windbreaker is usually not necessary.
The first thing I saw on arrival was the Erzhorn peak, at 2924m, which brought a huge smile to my face and I gawked at its majestic beauty. This was to be the view at sunrise for the next 10 days and I have to admit it was breathtaking.
(Erzhorn peak on a cloudy day & the first time I saw it at sunset)
During the following days we had time to do a lot of activities as the area is very well prepared for hiking and mountain biking:
Sunrise in the Friedhof hill
One of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever witnessed and photographed. In August the sun rises at around 7am, so it is ideal to go up the hill next to the cemetery at around 6:30am so as not to miss the first rays of light.
The path is of low difficulty but is not signposted. To reach the area, head towards the highest part of Arosa and follow the church road upwards until you come across these cabins.
First light of the day visiting the Bergkirchli
In the village you will find several churches, this one in particular is the Protestant church on the outskirts of Arosa next to the cemetery hill.
There is a dirt road to get there and a wooden bench where you can enjoy the first light of day. One of the things that caught my attention is that there are little metal boxes from the municipal library from which you can borrow a book to read in this place while enjoying the view.
Take a walk in “The Squirrel’s Forest”
For nature lovers, the Obersee Lake, located in the centre of the village, is the starting point for a route known as the squirrel trail. This is a simple route through a forest with marked trails where you can spend a morning surrounded by nature and see animals in the wild, such as deer, birds, cows and their friendly squirrels, who love to come and say hello to you.
Untersee Lake
The Untersee lake is located very close to the centre of the village. A beautiful area where I recommend watching the sunset as the colours completely change the tones of the mountains in the background and the light mist that usually appears at the end of the day gives us a polarising effect on the light allowing us to take photographs with a very soft and photogenic light.
If you dare, the lake is equipped for bathing and has a sandy area for sunbathing.
Arosa Stausee
One of the most beautiful lakes in the area with turquoise waters. It is located on the outskirts of the village, once we take the road to Coira. You can see it from high up by taking the route down or up to Coira by train as the access route to it is currently closed due to road works but, without a doubt, it is one of the great gems you can't miss!
Obersee Lake
Arosa's main lake is located in the centre of the town, yet it is an incredibly beautiful lake surrounded by the high mountains, where you can stroll around it, interact with the ducks and even take a boat ride. A must that you can easily find next to the train station.
Have a ride in the train to or from Coira
In just 26 km, the Arosa train climbs 1000 m. As a tram, the Rhätische Bahn RhB runs through Coira past the city walls, the Maltese Tower and the Obertor Gate. Minutes later the train winds through the unspoilt nature and hilly landscape of the Schanfigg valley. Shortly before Arosa, the train passes the Langwies viaduct over the river Plessur.
Throughout the journey you can enjoy incredible views of the valley and there is even an open-air carriage for photography along the way having views like the following ones:
Weisshorn Peak & Lenzerheide Peak with the Horli Express
One of the most comfortable ways to admire the valley from the two highest peaks is by taking the ski resort's cable cars. They are in operation and free with the "Arosa Card" if you are staying in the village.
At around 3000m, there are breathtaking views of the village and the Alpine mountain range with some of the highest peaks jutting out in snow.
From there you can start signposted downhill routes to the village on foot or by bike.
There are 3 lakes with hiking trails to visit, although on this occasion, they had very little water and we did not visit them.
Arosa Bärenland
It is a grizzly bear sanctuary at the foot of Weisshorn peak. This organisation rescues bears that have been mistreated in circuses in Eastern Europe and gives them a place in the middle of nature where they can live in dignified conditions.
They also have a small exhibition on animal abuse in circuses where you become the bear and can experience first-hand some of the mistreatment to which these animals are subjected.
The entrance fee is symbolic (5 €) and with it you contribute to the development of this project and return this species to its natural environment in the Alps.
You can find more info by clicking here.
It was the last day there when the weather stopped being so favourable and we dawned with all the peaks covered by clouds and fog in the Valley. Not only is the light on sunny days incredible there, but the days that dawn with low clouds are tremendously beautiful and breathtaking as you find yourself walking through the clouds. And, of course, I was excited to photograph and experience a sunrise in those conditions so I grabbed all my gear and got up the courage to go back up to the church to see what this latest sunrise would surprise me with.
The rest of the day was very relaxed, enjoying the family, the food and doing some shopping. That same day, talking to the locals, we were lucky enough to receive a very special invitation to an ice hockey match.
It was the first time I had the opportunity to see ice hockey live and... we were in the Alps! We gladly accepted the proposal, got some Arosa team merchandise and didn't think twice about going to cheer them on and enjoy the experience while having a typical servola dinner in the stands.
It was a hilarious experience and we got the victory that day! I couldn't have imagined a better end to those days of nature and family history.
There is a lot of country left to discover and I hope to be able to get away there soon. What I can say is that after enjoying the area, its people and landscapes, I felt at home. Without a doubt it is one of those places that leave a mark and is worth visiting. Thank you Grandfather for discovering Arosa and leaving us this small legacy in the family history.